2020 Pan American Olympic Qualifying Event

Nov 25, 2019

2020 Pan American Olympic Qualifying Event

Selection Criteria

Download PDF: 2020 Pan American OG Qualifier Draft Selection Criteria

I.             INTRODUCTION/ Event details

The 2020 Pan American Olympic Qualifier is the 3rd and final qualification event for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics.

There will be a pre-qualifying event immediately proceeding to determine the field for the Olympic Qualifier. The top 20 men and women from the Pre-qualifier will advance to the Pan American Olympic Qualification Event.

The winner of each of the Male and Female categories in the Pan American Olympic Qualifier will qualify for the 2020 Olympic Games in Tokyo (respecting the maximum for each NOC).

Dates and details for both events will be posted on the IFSC calendar when confirmed:


CEC Endorsement

CEC is the national body responsible for the sport of Sport Climbing in Canada as recognised by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC).

Athlete selection to Canadian 2020 Pan American Olympic Games Qualifier Squad will be made by the selection committee.


To be eligible for consideration for selection to the Canadian Pan Am OG Qualifier team, athletes must: 

  1. be a Canadian citizen;
  2. have read, signed in agreement and returned the execution page of the CEC athlete agreement.
  • be a current CEC National Level Member in good standing;
  1. meet all IFSC eligibility requirements;
  2. agree to Canadian Centre for Ethics in Sport (CCEC) and WADA anti-doping policies (ADPs);
  3. agree to participate in and meet all competition, training and participation requirements as determined by the HP committee;
  • be available for sample collection and have provided accurate and up-to- date whereabouts information on a regular basis as directed by IFSC and/or the Canadian Centre for Ethic in Sport (CCES), under the policies of IFSC and CCES and the World Anti-Doping Code (Code);
  • not have breached any ADPs in the past 10 years, nor have had a sanction imposed which has not been completed. For the purpose of considering eligibility for selection, a breach of any ADP may include: (i). an athlete under investigation for an Anti-Doping Rule Violation (ADRV) where an infraction notice has been issued or the athlete has been stood down under the provisions of any ADP; or ii. a failure to comply with an athlete’s obligations under an ADP, even if such a breach does not result in an ADRV.

Selection Committee

The role of assessing athletes against the selection criteria is the responsibility of the selection committee ratified by the CEC board.

The committee consists of:

  1. The High-Performance Director (HPD)
  2. The Executive Director (ED)
  • CEC athlete Representative.

The HPD will act as chairperson of the Selection Committee. In the case of unavailability, the CEC Board may appoint a replacement selection committee member. Each selection committee member will vote on athlete selection in line with the selection criteria objectives and without bias. If panel members cannot agree, the chairperson will have the final selection decision.


These criteria and sub sections may be amended or supplemented, particularly where matters arise which have not been provided for in these criteria. All amendments must be approved by the CEC Board. If approved, the CEC will provide public notification in writing, any criteria amendment or supplement, and will endeavour to give as much notice as possible, to all persons affected by any such amendment or supplement


It is the responsibility of all athletes to ensure that they comply with this policy, including attending required selection events, camps and execute all applications and understand all applicable terms and conditions by the relevant deadlines.


Appeals may be made to the HPD directly via email. An appeals committee (composed of 2 board appointees and the athlete rep) will consider all appeals.

iii.       Considerations and Objectives


The selection criteria and event objectives were created with the following considerations:

  1. The event is in a format that will not exist after Tokyo 2020.
  2. Only the winners qualify for the Olympic Games.
  3. Because of a) and b) above, this is not considered a developmental event.
  4. Final Rank in the Combined Format is a multiplier of the 3 discipline rankings. Winning athletes will have to produce:
    1. top 3-5 rank in 2 disciplines or more.


  1. Win one discipline (multiplier of 1) and top 10 rank in other 2 disciplines.
  1. The ability to produce results in d) above will be influenced by the number of Pan Am region athletes who are already qualified for the Olympics through the previous 2 Olympic Qualifying Events (2019 World Championships and Toulouse Olympic Qualifying Event).


The objectives of the selection committee and this policy are to:

  1. Select athletes whose results show a high probability to achieve the following:
    1. Win the event and qualify for 2020 OG.
  2. Select athletes who will always represent Canada professionally.

iv.       Selection Criteria

Athletes who achieve any one (1) of the following criteria will be selected to the 2020 Pan American Olympic Games Qualifier Squad:

  1. Top 3 WC rank amongst remaining Pan American athlete pool in a single discipline.
  2. Top 6 WC rank amongst remaining Pan American athlete pool in each of at least 2 disciplines.
  • Top 5 WC rank amongst remaining Pan American athlete pool in combined.
  1. PB Speed time (must be posted in either WC or YWC) within top 6 of remaining Pan American athlete pool.

If more than 4 athletes meet the above criteria, selections will be made according to the following hierarchy:

  1. Highest Average WC Rank across all disciplines.
  2. Highest Single Discipline WC Rank.
  • Previous WC combined experience.

v.         Timing and Alternates


Selections will be made following the Toulouse Olympic Qualifier.

Notifications will be sent NO LATER than Dec 12/2019 and will have 1 week to accept or decline invitations.


If more than 4 athletes meet the selection criteria, and, 1 or more of the top 4 decline the invitation, alternates will be notified NO LATER than Dec 20/2019 and will have 1 week to accept or decline invitations.

Vi.       Funding 

This is a self-funded event. All associated expenses are the responsibility of the athlete.

CEC will send 2 staff to support athletes and arrange team accommodations in LA.

Athletes are required to stay in team accommodations.


For further information please contact;

Andrew Wilson, High performance Director

Climbing Escalade Canada



Visit Our Shop

Follow Us on Instagram